Singapore: St. John's and Kusu Islands

Da Bo Gong Temple, Kusu Island - Photo by Mo

Singapore is very cosmopolitan, so things can get a bit claustrophobic if you’re not much of a city-person. If you’re more the outdoorsy type, or if you’re just looking for a peaceful outing in general, then consider a day trip to St. John’s and Kusu Islands.

St. John’s Island and Kusu Island are two of Singapore’s southern islands, between five and six kilometers off of the mainland, and their stunning shrines and beaches make them popular with religious pilgrims and tourists alike. 

Kusu Island - Photo by Mo

St. John’s and Kusu islands are a short ferry ride away from Marina South Pier. To reach the pier, first take the MRT to Marina Bay Station. Once outside, cross the street to the bus stop and take the 402 bus to the stop right in front of the pier entrance. It’s about a five minute ride, and the bus stop is near the water’s edge, but you can ask the driver exactly which stop it is to avoid any confusion. The 402 bus route is actually a loop service (from Shenton Way Terminal to International Cruise Terminal), so you can ride it several times if necessary, and you can catch any 402 bus from the pier back to the Marina Bay MRT station (your EZ-link MRT card is valid on the bus system, but make sure you scan your card both when you get on and when you get off the bus!) A round-trip ride will cost you less than 2 Singapore Dollars (SD).

Once at the pier, you can purchase a ferry ticket from the Singapore Island Cruise company, which provides a daily service between St. John’s and Kusu. Tickets cost 15SD for adults and 12SD for children under 12, and they are fairly flexible, meaning you can stay on each island for as long as like and catch the ferry of your choosing to your next destination. However, the ferries run fairly infrequently (for example, there is only one morning and one afternoon departure from Marina South Pier to the islands on weekdays), so I suggest you make your island outing a day-trip and go first thing in the morning. My friends and I decided to go in the afternoon, and by the time we got to the pier, we caught the last ferry out, which means we had about 15 minutes on each island before the boat continued on its way (and at one point the crew was yelling at us to hurry up!) We still had a blast, but the islands are gorgeous, and we would have enjoyed having more time to explore them, so keep the ferry schedule in mind. To view the ferry schedule, click here.

While you’re waiting for your ferry ride, you can check out the pier’s top deck for some great ocean and city-views, or you can visit the Singapore Maritime Gallery, which is a lot cooler than it sounds (and it’s free!) The museum has amazing exhibits and some awesome interactive technology and simulations to explain Singapore’s history as one of the world’s busiest ports; for example, you can practice steering a ship in various sea conditions.  The museum is open from 9:00 a.m. to 5:30 p.m. Tuesdays through Sundays.

Photo by Mo

Your first destination will be St. John’s Island, which was the original landing site of Sir Stamford Raffle when he first came to Singapore.  Although it was a quarantine station for immigrants traveling to Singapore for many years, St. John’s is now a tranquil paradise, full of jungle trails, swimming lagoons, soccer fields, and picnic grounds.  St. John’s is great for hiking, so I suggest you wear or at least bring a good pair of sneakers with you if plan on doing some exploring. You can also camp out overnight on the island by renting a Holiday Bungalow, which can house up to 10 people, or by staying in one of the dormitories at the Holiday Camp, which can accommodate 60 people.

Monsoon Weather! Photo by Mo

In my previous post, I mentioned that bad weather can really sneak up on you during monsoon season. I know this because my friends and I got caught in a storm while visiting St. John’s Island. Within minutes, it went from hot and sunny to torrential downpour. There’s little cover on the island and so much rain coming at you from all directions that an umbrella is basically pointless, but if you also visit the islands during monsoon season, you should really have a waterproof bag with you to protect your electronics—and an extra pair of dry shoes.

After you’ve explored St. John’s, take the ferry over to Kusu Island. Kusu means “Tortoise” or “Turtle” in Chinese, and legend says a magical tortoise turned itself into the island to save two shipwrecked sailors who were so grateful that they returned to the island to build, according to their beliefs, a Muslim kramat and a Taoist Shrine. Naturally, tortoises are a big theme on Kusu, and there is even a tortoise sanctuary on the island that you can visit. 

One of the most famous landmarks on Kusu Island is the Chinese Temple Da Bo Gong (also called Tua Pek Kong). This gorgeous temple, which was built in 1923, houses the deities Da Bo Gong (Grand Uncle) and Guan Yin (Goddess of Mercy). Da Bo Gong is known for conferring prosperity and averting danger, while Guan Yin is known as the “giver of sons,” and pilgrims will often visit the temple to pray for good fortune and children (in fact, during the Kusu pilgrimage season, which is from mid-October to mid-November, thousands of pilgrims visit the island!) As you search the grounds, don’t forget to make a wish in the temple’s wishing well.

Photo by Mo

Kusu is also home to three hilltop kramats (or holy shrines for Malay saints), which honor the pious Syed  Abdul Rahman, his mother, Nenek Ghalib, and his sister, Puteri Fatimah, who lived in the nineteenth century. You must climb 152 steps to reach the kramats, and many pilgrims will visit these shrines as well.

Da Bo Gong - Photo by Mo

Kusu boasts some beautiful lagoons and beaches, and it’s a great place for an afternoon picnic. But unlike St. John’s, overnight stays are not permitted, so give yourself plenty of time during the day to enjoy the area.

If you want to see a different side of Singapore, visit St. John’s and Kusu islands. Whether you stay on the islands all day or only have time for a mad-dash trip, this island-hopping outing is an adventure worth having!

Singapore: An Introduction/Merlion Park

Merlion Park - Photo by Mo

My first trip to Asia began with Singapore, and Singapore is one of the more interesting places I’ve ever visited. It’s sort of the melting pot of Asia, in the sense that it's home to a number of different cultures that blend together. Singapore is populated by numerous groups—primarily Chinese, Malays, Indians, Eurasians, and expatriates—and a variety of religions, including Buddhism, Christianity, Islam, Hinduism, Taoism, and Judaism. The different groups, along with Singapore’s vibrant history, have created a one-of-a-kind destination that should be on every traveler’s list of must-sees.

Boat Quay - Photo by Mo

There are a few things to note about Singapore. Singapore is very conservative and very clean (a famous example is how the city-state has banned chewing gum.) Big chunks of the city, especially in the touristy areas, are also in constant states of development; a fellow traveler who was originally from Singapore told my friend and me that the city looked completely different from the way it did when he was there ten years ago. It’s a lot like Las Vegas, but without the debauchery: huge resorts, glittering hotels, and tons of shopping malls meshed together with crowded street markets and ethnic neighborhoods, temples and mosques, and lovely parks and gardens. Singapore is incredibly eclectic, which makes it a fascinating place to explore.   

Singapore is also VERY HOT. It’s located extremely close to the Equator, so the weather is consistently in the high 80 and 90 degrees Fahrenheit with humidity all year long. There’s also a lot of rain, particularly during monsoon season (typically November to January), when heavy storms will appear seemingly out of nowhere (trust me on this.) In other words, always carry sunscreen, an umbrella, and a bottle of water! (Quick side note on bottled water: compared to other countries in South East Asia, Singapore’s tap water is safe to drink.)  

Malay, Tamil, Chinese and English are all national languages, so English is widely spoken in Singapore. However, a lot of people speak the local dialect “Singlish,” which can be hard to understand at times; it incorporates a lot of slang from other languages, including Chinese and Malay dialects, and you’ll often hear “lah” inserted at the end of phrases and sentences. Expect a few challenges, but overall, you shouldn’t have too many communication difficulties.  

Considering it’s a city-state, similar to Monaco on the French Riviera, Singapore is very big and very spread-out. There’s plenty of public transportation—buses, taxis, boats, etc.—but the cheapest and easiest way to get around is on the metro, or MRT system, but the stops aren’t very close to one another, so plan on doing a lot of walking regardless. Still, the MRT is a convenient way to get around.

One-way tickets usually cost anywhere between 80 cents and 2 Singapore Dollars (SGD), but it can be time-consuming to purchase tickets one ride at a time. The most cost-effective method is to buy an EZ-link or Nets Flash Pay card, which costs 12 SGD to purchase (5 SGD for the card with 7 SGD worth of rides pre-loaded on it) and can be topped up in 10 SGD increments; the card can also be used for both the MRT and public buses. Another option is the Singapore Tourist Pass, which starts at 10 SGD for one day, but you would have to ride the MRT a lot in one day to make that pass worth buying. I recommend you buy your EZ-link pass at Changi Airport when you first arrive and top it up as needed.  

Photo by Mo

Once you secure your MRT ticket or pass, one of your first stops should be to visit Merlion Park, part of Singapore’s famous Riverside district. Merlion Park is located along the Singapore River, just behind the Fullerton Hotel facing Marina Bay, and it’s aptly named for the famous Merlion fountain—half-lion, half-mermaid—that overlooks the water (Singapore comes from the Malay word Singapura, which means “Lion City.”) My friend and I got there in a crazy, roundabout sort of way by starting at the City Hall MRT station on the East West line (the green line) and walking a very long way past the World War II memorial and St. Andrew’s Cathedral (both beautiful), across the Cavenagh Bridge (Singapore’s oldest bridge), and through the Fullerton Hotel. To save yourself the distance, take the MRT to Raffles Place on the North South line (the red line) and head towards the Fullerton Hotel (it’s a helpful landmark.) You can either walk around the complex or pass through it to reach the Merlion. 

The Merlion statue, which was designed in the 1960s, is located on the south bank, and it’s both a popular tourist destination and a great photo-op. There’s a small pier in front of the statue that lets you take some great pictures with the Central Business District (or CBD) skyscrapers in the background. And don’t miss the Mini-Merlion statue just behind the larger one near the bridge. 

Photo by Mo

And since you’re already there, be sure to check out the rest of the Riverside, including Boat Quay and Clark Quay near the Raffles Place MRT station. It’s set up so you can do an easy loop around the entire area, and there are tons of restaurants along the water-front and usually live music. It’s a very pleasant walk at night when it’s cooler outside, and the skyline is particularly stunning all lit up. For a different perspective, you can catch a Singapore River cruise, starting at 13 SGD. Be on the look-out for the Raffles Statue, next to the Asian Civilizations Museum, which is supposedly built on the exact spot where Sir Thomas Stamford Raffles, the founder of Singapore, first landed. The Riverside also has a rich nightlife, with a number of different clubs, theaters, and even amusement park rides to choose from (keep in mind that most things in Singapore, particularly food and drinks, are on the expensive side, so budget accordingly.)

Raffles Statue - Photo by Mo

Singapore is truly a microcosm of Asia, and the Riverside is only a small part of this amazing, diverse city. For a truly unique Asia experience, put Singapore at the top of your list!

Rome, Italy: The Forum

Photo by Mo

The Forum is without a doubt one of the most important archaeological sites in the world. With origins dating back to the 8th century BC, the Forum was the heart and soul of city life in ancient Rome. It was not only home to commerce and entertainment (through markets, taverns, shops, festivals, gladiator games, military processions, etc.) but also politics, as citizens would come to the Forum to hear political speeches, cast votes in elections, attend criminal trials, and share news. The complex housed government buildings, monuments, temples and shrines, royal residences, and more. The Forum was truly a symbol of prosperity and community.   

Photo by Mo

Following the collapse of the Roman Empire, this once popular city center fell into disarray and was eventually abandoned in the Middle Ages, and portions of the ruins were taken and used in fortifications elsewhere. But archaeologists rediscovered the Forum in the 18th century, and since its discovery and subsequent restoration, it is once again a popular site, attracting millions of visitors each year.

Photo by Mo

The Forum is part of the Colosseum complex, between Piazza Venezia and the Colosseum, so it’s a short walk from the Colosseo stop on the blue metro line. You can pay for guided tours of the Forum (usually as part of citywide tours), or you can explore on your own, following the pathway through the Forum that starts at the Arch of Septimius Severus and winds pass the ruins of the Basilica di Massenzio and Basilica Emilia to the Arch of Titus and the Colosseum. On Via dei Fori Imperiali, you can also visit the Forum Museum (or Antiquarium Forense), located on the ground floor of the convent of Santa Maria Nova, to check out their collection of artifacts (the museum is open from 8:30 a.m. until one hour before sunset and costs 12 euro.)

There is so much to see at the Forum that I highly recommend taking a guided tour to help put everything in context (unless you have a friend who is or was a history-major traveling with you, which is the next best thing), but if you would rather go the self-guided route, it’s a beautiful place for a leisurely stroll. Whether you’re looking for a history lesson or simply passing through on your way to the Colosseum, the Forum is well-worth a visit.

Photo by Mo

*As sort of a bonus stop to the Forum, check out Aventine Hill, one of the Seven Hills of Rome, which is a mile away on foot from the Colosseum (near the Circo Massimo metro stop on the blue line). Aventine Hill is home to the Knights of Malta, a Roman Catholic religious order with extraterritorial status; their headquarters consist of Santa Maria del Priorato church, the Magistral Palace, and the Magistral Villa. Because it’s private property, you can’t enter the grounds, but visitors are allowed to peek through the keyhole in the main door of the church, and if you’re willing to make the trek there, you’ll be rewarded with an amazing sight: the keyhole lines up with a perfect view of St. Peter’s Basilica across the Tiber River. There is also a nice park next to the complex that is open to the public, where you can get a great panoramic view of the city.

Photo by Jamie Pontius

Rome, Italy: St. Peter's Square

St. Peter's Square - Photo by Mo

  
It’s strange to describe a physical place as a work of art, but St. Peter’s Square, designed by the artist Bernini, is just that. Bernini designed Piazza di San Pietro in the Baroque style from 1656 to 1667, and the finished masterpiece forms a grand entrance for St. Peter’s Basilica. The wide open space certainly attracts plenty of tourists, but the church also uses the area to accommodate larger crowds for mass and other special events.

Photo by Mo

Bernini divided the piazza into two sections: the section closest to the basilica is a trapezoid, which narrows instead of fanning out at the end; this design alters the perspective to make it look like the basilica is closer to the square than it actually is and to make the façade look taller. The second section is elliptical in shape, with a great Egyptian obelisk located in the center. There are also two large fountains marking either side of the obelisk; one designed by the artist Maderno in 1613 and the other added by Bernini in 1675. The most famous and most popular element of St. Peter’s Square is Bernini’s colonnades, four columns deep, which frame the perimeter of both sections of the piazza. St. Peter’s Square used to be obscured by a number of different buildings, and it was actually Mussolini who had the area demolished in 1937 and built the long wide street (Via della Conciliazione) that opened up the square, making it easily visible and accessible to visitors today. 

Photo by Mo

Now Bernini was a master of perspective, and there’s a poorly-kept secret about how the colonnades' design creates an optical illusion. Because the second section of the piazza is an ellipse and not a perfect circle, there are two points—one on either side of the ellipse—where the columns that frame that section line up so perfectly that it looks as though there is only one row of columns surrounding the piazza. These points are marked by two circular stones on the ground between the two fountains and the obelisk. If you stand directly on these markers, the four rows of columns merge into one. It’s fun to try, and while a lot people seem to know this trick, it’s always fun to reveal the illusion to the tourists who don’t know it.    

Piazza di San Pietro is free to visit, and since it's part of Vatican City, it's located near the Ottaviano stop on Metro Line A (red). It is a great place for people watching, and there are a number of nice cafes and restaurants in the area that cater to the tourist crowd. While it’s beautiful during the day, be sure to return to St. Peter’s Square to see the square and the basilica lit up at night!